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STONE'S 



SCIENTIFIC SYSTEM 



OF GRADING 



Patterns For Men's Garments 



By the Proportions of Heights and Widths 
of the Human Form 



CHAS. j: STONK 
CHICAGO, ILL. 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

CHICAGO 



COPYRIGHTlin 1912 BV 

Thu Chas. I. Stonk Co. 






I 



7. 



4 fo-oa 



/J/VT 



1 



INTRODUCTORY 




U. experienced garment designers and 
pattern cutters know from actual practice 
that wliile a garment drafted 38 breast 
t'lr a 38 size man will lit properly, a 33 
breast coat for a 33 breast man will be 
too small, and a 43 breast coat for a man 
measuring 43 breast will be too large, and 
in actual practice tbe cutter knows that 
llic Miiall Mzes will come out small and tbe larger sizes, 
large. Besides these difficulties in sizing garments the 
cutters have also discovered that it is impossible to draft 
two patterns alike, but by a scientific method of grading 
it is possible to produce any number of patterns with the 
correct increase and decrease in all sizes and with the 
same shape and outlines as in the original model pattern 
that we grade from. 

First of all let mc impress ujwn the student's mind, 
that grading can not be done by angling out from any 
imaginary jwint (simply starting somewhere, may land 
you nowhere). The grading of patterns means an equal 
increase and decrease in size, but remember that while 
the breast, waist and seat increases, one inch for each 
size, the height does not increase in the same proportions 
as the breast, hence the angled out lines do not give the 
proper increase and decrease desired. 

Second, do not attempt to grade from youth's to men's 
nor from slims to stouts, for they are all of diflferent 
types, forms and heights, and so classed by experienced 
cutters and designers. 

Classifications. 

First comes the regulars, that is, patterns for the reg- 
ular normal man. The first model pattern is cut for a 
man measuring in height 5 feet 8 inches, breast 38, waist 
34, seat 39, with vest and trousers to correspond. 

Second comes the tails and slims, height 6 feet, 
breast 36, waist 32, seat 37. 

Third is the stouts, fats, and the corpulent. 

Stouts — Breast 40, waist 38, seat 41. 

Fats — Breast 42, waist 42, seat 43. 



Corpulents — Breast 44, waist 46, seat 46. 

All 5 feet 8 inches in height. 

Fourth, we have the stubs. 
The stout stubs. 
The fat stubs. 
The corpulent stubs. 
.Ml 5 feet 6 inches in height. 

I'^ifth, we have the youths. 

Height 5 feet 7 inches. 

Breast 36, waist 31, seat 38. 

N'oTii. — 'To grade down to 30 breast space down four 
sizes and divide into five parts. 

Trcjlisers. 

For regular trousers use pattern 34 waist, 39 seat, 
with knee and bottom size to prevailing style. 

I'^or stout men's use pattern 38 waist. 40 seat. 

For fat men's use pattern 42 waist, 43 seat. 

I'^or corpulent men's use pattern 46 waist, 46 seat. 

Increase and decrease waist 1 inch and increase and 
decrease seat ^ inch for each size. 

In grading patterns, first cut a model for each type of 
form, then proceed to make the different grades. 

.■\s previously stated, the small sizes get too small and 
the large sizes get too large, so in grading, space for 
four sizes and divide the spaces into five parts, thereby 
decreasing the large sizes and increasing the smaller 
sizes. 

In the normal i)atterns start with size 38, go up four 
sizes from 38 to 42. divide this into five parts and 42 
will become size 43, then go down four sizes from 38 to 
34, divide this into five parts and 34 will be size 33. 

Sack overcoats are graded on same lines as the regular 
sack coat. 

Note. — In laying out the grade, use an ordinary 
square and use the divisions 19 — 21 all over; 19 is for 
38 and 21 is for 42, which is 4 sizes. This is divided into 
5 parts as will be further explained with the grades. 

Note. — Tools to be used : Projwrtional divider, par- 
allel rulers and perforating needle, besides the ordinary 
tailor's square. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Gradimj Patterns 



DIAGRAMS A AND B 



( Prelim iNARv) 

Diagram A — The llackparl — Draw a straight Hne on 
grading pajjer as ])er line A, U, S and I. The heavy 
line A, 1!, T, C, U, E, F and G is the 38 size pattern. 
I.ay the pattern so that the bottom part C is •>4 inch in 
from straight line 1 and in this ])osition copy off the back. 
S<|uare a line across from B through point F", then square 
breast line L'-\'. Top of sidebody, line E-O is parallel 
with line li-l'\ Si|uare up line iron} G and square out 
line D-Q at bottom. The first pattern being size 38, 
find 19 on divisions, the next pattern is 42 or 21 on divis- 
ions, so the space is 19 to 21 on divisions on the square. 
A to J is on 3rds. 

G to K is on 3rds and K to L on 8ths. 
Draw line through G and L. 
F to M is on 3rds and M to N on 3rds. 
Draw line through F and N. 
N to 1 is >^ inch. 

E to O is on 3rds and (J to P on 12ths. 
Draw line through E and P and a parallel line from 8 

for point 9. 
H is the sleeve notch. S(|uare out to 2. 
2 to 3 is on 6ths. Draw a line through H and 3. 
5 to 6 is on 3rds and 6 to 7 on 6ths. 
D to Q is on 3rds. Set spacer on 5 and divide all over. 

The Fouep.xrt. 

The solid heavy lines represent the forepart size 38. 
Square breast line by front line .\, ?>, C. 



Square up front shoulder point I by breast line E. 

11 is I'j inch from G and F. 

Draw line from II through L for AI. 

L to M is on 3rds. 

I to J is on 3rds and J to K on 8ths. 

Draw line through I and K. 

Draw line from I to X and a parallel line from K fm 

point O. 
K to O is ^4 inch more than I to N. 
Draw line through N and O and draw a parallel line 

through 1 for 2. 
Parallel O and 2 by N and 1. 
U is end of roll of lapel and point 3 is break of roll at 

neck gorge. 
Parallel 3-4 by I-K. 
U to V is on 5ths or T/^ inch. 
V to Y is on 6ths. 
Draw line through U-Y. 
W to X is on 5ths or ",s inch. 
Line P-S is |)arallel with breast line. 
P to S is on 4ths and S to T on 12ths. 
Draw line through P-T and jiarallel from 8 for 9. 
5 to 6 is on 4ths and 6 to 7 on 6ths. 
Q to R is on 4ths. 
Set spacer on 5 and divide all the marked off grades into 

5 parts. The 42 pattern will be .size 43, which is 

correct. 
The V under the arm is moved backwards and forwards 

t)n Sths. 
The pockets arc lengthened and shortened on Sths. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Putt cms 




Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM C-D 

Diagram C— The Backpart— The heavy line repre- 
sents a 38 size back, and the grade is laid out the same 
as in Diagram A. Space up and out 4 sizes and divide 
all these spaces into 5 parts, then space off up and down 
on all the various lines from 38 up to 43 and 46 and 
down to 34, thus giving us the complete grade from 34 
to 46. 

The forepart D is graded the same as forepart B, us- 
ing a 38 pattern. Space out 4 sizes from 38 to 42. Di- 
vide this into 5 parts, making 42 to size 43. Space up 
and down on all (he various lines up to 46 and down to 
34. The V under the arm is not graded. The pockets 
are graded on 8ths or as small a space as you can make. 
No further ex])lanation is needed on this grade, as it is 
made precisely the same as Diagram .\-I>, only it has 
been increased and decreased to the smaller and the large 
sizes. 



Stone s Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 




)0 Stone's Scientific System 

of Gradiny Patterns 



DIAGRAM E 



Diagram E is the forepart of a fat man's Sack coat, 
4_' breast, 42 waist. In grading fat man's patterns start 
with 42 breast and space 4 sizes from 21 to li and 
divide these in 5 parts, making the 46 size 47. Extend 
the grades up to 50 and down to 38. By using the division 
of 5 it will decrease the lar,^er sizes and increase the 
smaller ones. The back is graded the same as the or- 
dinary Sack coat. The heav\- line represents the 42 
pattern. In squaring the breast line lay S(|uare back 1 
inch from A to B at the waist line, which is ^/^ of an 
inch for every inch of fat. Lay corner of square at end 
of lapel and square line \\'-X. Breast line C-D is then 
parallel with \\'-X. Shoulder point E is s luared up 
fnjm breast line Z. E to F is on 3rds, E to G on 8ths. 
Draw a line through E and C,. 14 is 1 ' l, inch from 12 
and 13. Draw a line from 14 through L. I. to M is on 
3rds. Line J-W is the break line of lapel on 42 size. 
I'arallel line J-K by line E-(l. Draw a line from E to 
II. I'arallel line from G to 1. G to I is '4 inch more 
than E to 11. Draw a line thro\i.!.;li 11 and 1 and parallel 
line 1-2 by 1 1-1. W to X is Js inch. X to Y is on 6ths. 
Draw a line through W and Y. .\ to ') is '^ inch. 10 
In II is "s inch. 1) to X and P to C) is the \ taken oul 
under the arm. lireast line X-Q is first drawn on th.- 
pattern with points X and D close together. Top ol 
sidebody line R-S is parallel with X-Q. R to S is on 
4ths and S to T on 12ths. Draw a line through R and 
T and parallel line 16-17 by R-T. U to V is on 4ths. 
The V under the arm moves backwards and forwards 
on Sths. Line 34-35 is parallel with il and 33. The \' 
moves forwards and backwards from P and O on Sths. 
The first \' in the 42 coat is parallel by the notch of 
Uqiel line 24-2S. Line 3-4 is the front and line 3-6 the 
opening of the V. Line 7-8, the end of the \' is parallel 
with line 3 and 4. Set spacer on 5 and divide all 
these spaces. Shoulder point E is 42, G is 47, 
28 is 50, 29 is 38, L is 42. M is 47, 30 is 50, 31 is 38. 
Front \V is 42, Y is 47. 20 is 50, 21 is 38, 10 is 42, 11 is 
47, i7 is 50, 38 is 38. In the side— R is 42. T is 47. 40 
is 50 and iK)int 39 is iS. Th.e ])ockets in the front at 
ii are lengthened and shortened on Sths. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



11 




12 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



FROCK COATS 



The Frock coats are graded the same as the Sack coats 
starting witli a size 38 pattern. Diagram F 1. 
A to Z is on 3rds. 

T to U is on 3rds and U to V on 8ths. 
Draw hnc through T and \'. 
J to K is on 3rds and K to L on 3rds. 
Draw line through J and L. 
L to S is % inch. 

M to X is on 3r<ls and N to O on 12ths. 
Draw line through ]\1 and (J. 
P is sleeve notch, s(|uare out to Q. 
Q to R is on 6ths. 

Draw line through P-R for sleeve notch. 
C-D is the length of the 38 back. 
C to (i and D to E is on 6ths. 
F to F is on 12ths. 
Draw line through D and F. 

Tiri-; Sii>F,noi)Y — Di.\(;r.\m F 2. 

Square up thnnigli i)oint 5 tnj) of sidebody by breast 

line W. 
5 to 6 is on 12ths and 6 to 7 on 8ths. 
Draw line through 3 and 7. 
') to 10 is on 3rds. 10 to 1 1 and 8 to 12 is on 6ths and 12 

to 13 on 8ths. 
]')raw lines through 8 and 13 and 9 and 11. 
8 and 9 is the 38 size and 13 and 11 is the 42 size. 
5 is the 38 and 7 is the 42 size spaced. 
Point 14 remains the same. 

The Forepart — Diacr.xm F 3. 
The heavy line represents the 38 size. 



Square breast line X, Y, 42, 1. 

Square up through shonliicr point 23 by breast line 42. 

23 to 24 is on 3rds. 

24 to 25 is on 8ths. 

Draw line through 23 and 25. 

Draw line from 23 to 26. 

Draw parallel line from 25 for 27. 

25 to 27 is '4 incii more than 23 to 26. 

Draw line through 2() and 27 and parallel line 28 to 29. 

The V is 36. 

37 is parallel with line 26-27 and line 38 is parallel with 

36-37. 
Line 39-40 is parallel with line 36-37. 
Line 27-29 is parallel with 26-28. 
Break line 30-31 is parallel with line 23-25. 
Y to 21 is % inch. 
21 to 22 is on 6ths. 
Draw line through Y and 22. 

18 to 19 is J 8 inch. 

19 to 20 is on 6ths. 

Draw line through 18 and 20. 

18 is the 38 and 20 is the 42. 

15 to 16 is on 4ths and 16 to 17 on 6ths. 

Draw line through 15 and 17. 

15 is the 38 and 17 the 42 size. 

Line 1-2 is parallel with breast line. 

1 to 2 is on 8ths and 3, to 4 is the same. 

Point 32 is l'/^ inch up and back from the scye. 

Draw a line from 32 through 33 for 34. 

33 to 34 is on 3rds. 

Divide all these spaces into 5 jiarts and the largest i)at- 

tern spaced 42 will become size 43. See Diagram F 

for complete grade of Frock coats. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



^^ 




14 Stone's Scientific System 

of Grading Patterns 



FROCK COAT. DIAGRAM F 



Complete Grade. 

r.y having studied the preceding diagram the student 
lias famiHarized himself with the general layout of the 
grade, so it will be unnecessary to go into ail the pre- 
limiiiar)- details. The solid heavy lines represent the 38 
size coat. Space out four sizes from 38 to 42, 19 to 21 
on divisions, as cxjilained in Diagram F, 1, 2 and 3. 
Divide these sjjaces into 5 parts, thus making the 42 size 
43. Extend all lines up and down and continue the 
spaces up and duwn to the largest and smallest pattern 
desired. In the i>attern the largest is 46 and the smallest 
is 34. The waist length of the back is lengthened and 
shortened on Oths. The foreparts and sidebodies are 
lengthened and shortened on 6ths, which will leave the 
length of the skirts the same. 

The Skirt. 

A, n, C and D is the 38 skirt. Draw a straight line 
from A through B for ])oints E-G. It is easier to grade 
a .s(|uare corner than one that is round, .so for the begin- 
ner it is better to square out the corners and grade them 
square and afterwards round the corners. The bottom 
of the skirt rounds back to point J, but in this case it has 
been s(|uared down to point D. S(|uare forward and 
back from D. A line may be drawn just above the 
round of the skirt and graded if so desired. The in- 
crease of the skirt in width from B to E and D to F is 
1^ inch or two inches less the increase of the back at 
waist line. Divide the distance between B and E, D and 
F, into tive parts, go forward 3 spaces from E to G and 
F to II for the 46 size and come back four spaces from 
r. to I and D to J for the 34 size. Shape top to each 
point in front from ])oint K, top of hip. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



13 




16 



Stone's Scientific SystcKi 
of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM G 



Tin-: Paletot. 

Tlic I'aletot is graded the same as the Frock Coat. 
Start grathng with a size 40 pattern and space off four 
sizes from 40 to 44. Use 20 to 22 on divisions. 
A, B, O, L, F, G is the size 40 back. 
A to V is on 6ths. 

G to II is on 6ths and II to 1 on Sths. 
Draw hne through Ci and 1. 
!<■ to J is on 3rds and J to K on 3rds, 
Draw line tlirough F and K. 
K to 10 is '/s inch. 
L to M is on 3rds and .\I tn .\ on 12ths. 

5 is sleeve notch. S(|uare out to 6. 

6 to 7 is on 6ths. Draw line through 6 and 7. 
B to U and O to P is on 6ths. 

P to Q is on 12ths. Draw line through O and Q. 
Divic.e all these spaces into 5, go up to 48 and down to 
36, or up and down to any other sizes desired. 

Tin-; SujiiiiODY. 

Square u]) through top of sidebody iioint 12 from breast 

line 11. 
12 to 13 is on 12ths and 13 to 14 is on Sths. 
Draw line through point 12 and 14 for 15 and 16, then 

draw parallel line 17 and 18 for the seam. 
16 is size 36, \H>'ml 12 is 40, jxiinl 14 is 45 and point 15 

is size 48. 
Points 20 and 1') is the 40 sidebody. 
19 to 21 is on 3rds. 
21 to 22 and 20 to 23 is on 6ths. 
23 to 24 is on 8ths. 

Draw line through 20 and 24 for 2b and 26. 
Draw line through V) and 22 for 27 and 28. Divide into 

5 parts. 
26-27 is size 36, 20-19 is size 40, 24-22 is size 45 and 

25-28 is size 48. 
Point 29 remains stationarx'. 

Till-: l'"ouiir.\RT. 

Square breast line A, B, C, D. 



The hea\y line is the size 40 coat. 

Square u]) from breast line C through shoulder point I. 

Point 14 is !'/> inch uj) and back from armscye. 

Draw line from 14 through 15. 

15 to 16 is on 3rds. 

1 to J is on 3rds and J to K on 8ths. 

Draw a line I and K. 

Draw a line from shoulder point I to notch of lapel 2, 

then draw a iJarallel line from K for 3. 
3 to K is 34 inch more than I to 2. 
Point \ is the \' for the 40 ccat. 
Draw ])arallel line with line L-.M up and down from O. 

Lines R-S and T-l' are parallel with O-P. 
Draw line through 2 and 3 and parallel lines 1 and 6. 
\' to W is ',s inch and W to X is on 6ths. 
Draw line through \' and X. 
9 to 10 is 7s inch and 10 tn 11 (.n Oths. 
Draw line through ') and 11. 
Line 42 is parallel with line 12-13. 
D is the size 40 coat. 
Line E-l' is parallel with breast line. The increase from 

D out to the 44 size is on 8ths. 
30 is the side seam ; 27 and 22 is the forepart and skirt 

of the 40 coat. 
.\ \' is cut out as from 27 to 22 extending up to 40. 
22 to 23 is on 8ths and 23 to 24 on 6ths. 
Draw line through 22 and 24. 
Parallel 27 with line 25 and 26. 
Line 40 is paralleled by 25 and 26. 
Divide distance between 22 and 24 into 5 i)arts, then run 

up and down to 26 and 25. Divide lines 28-29 and 

line 40 with same spaces. 
30 to 31 is on 4ths and 31 to 32 on 6ths. 
Draw line through 30 and 32 and divide into 5 parts, 

then space up and down for the 48 and 36 sizes. 
The skirt runs from 22 through 30 to 35 and down to 43. 
35 to 36 is on 6ths and 36 to 37 is ^^ inch. 
Draw line through 35 anil 37 and divide into 5 parts, go 

up to 38 for 48 size and down to 39 for the 36 size. 
Line 43 is parallel with line ,38-,19 and the divisions are 

the same. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



)7 




18 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM H 



Till-: Raglan. 

The Raglans are graded tlic same as the regular Sack 
coats. Use a size 40 to grade from. The heavy lines 
indicate the 40 size jjattern. 

The Back. 

A to V is on 3rds. 
B to C is on 3rds. 
C to D is on 8ths. 
Draw line through P, and D. 
Point F is the sleeve notch. 
Scjuare across at point F. 
F to G is on 3rds and G to Q on 6tlis. 
Draw line through F and Q. 
Reduce '/,s inch at point O. 
Line ll-l is ])arallel with line E, F. 
H to I is on 3rds and I to J on 12ths. 
Draw line through II and I. 
Draw line M-X i)arallel with line K-L. 
O to P is on 3rds. 
2 to 3 is on 3rds. 

Divide all these spaces into 3 parts. 
W, T. R, X. K and 4 is the 48 size. 
\', D. Q, P, I and 3 is the 45 size. 
X, U, S, M, L and 5 is the 36 size. 

The bottom part is graded the same as the regular Sack 
coat. 



The Foreiwkt. 

Draw breast line across at to]) of sidebody. 

.^c|uare u]) through shoulder point 6 from breast line C. 

6 to 7 is on 3rds and 7 to 8 is on 8ths. 

Draw line through 6 and 8. 

6 is forwards of 11 and points 7 and 8 forwards of 12. 

Draw line from 6 to 9 and jiarallel line from 8 for 10. 

8 to 10 is ''4 inch more than 6 to 9. 

Draw line through 9 and 10 and parallel line 14-15. 

The lines for the \"s are parallel with front of notch 

line 9-10. The bottom of the \' is on a parallel with 

tlie top. 
25 is end of iJie roll and 18 is the l)reak of roll at neck. 

Parallel break line 18-19, 20 and 21 with line 6-8 front 

shoulder ])oints. 

25 to 26 is Jfi inch. 

26 to 27 is on 6ths. 

Draw line through 25 and 27, sjiace into 3 jiarts, go up to 

28 for the 48 size and down to 29 for the 36 size. 
30 is the top of sidebody of the 40 size. 

30 to 31 is on 4ths. 

31 to 32 on 12ths. 

Draw line through 30 and 32 and di\ide up and down for 

all sizes. 
Draw parallel line 37-38 for the seam. 
34-38 is size 36, 30-35 is size 40, 32-36 is size 45 and 

33-37 is size 48. 
Point at 39 is on 4ths and at 40 same as at breast line. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



10 




20 Stone's Scientific System 

of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM I 



The Forepart oi- nouni.E Breasjed Fkcjck 

The Double Breasted Frock is graded the same as the 
Single Breasted Frock. The heavy line is the 38 size 
Forepart. 
Sc|uare breast line and s(|uare up line C through front 

shoulder point. 
Point Z is lj4 inch from 24 and 25. 
Draw a line from Z through F. 
E to I is on 3rds and I to J on 8ths. 
Draw a line through E and J. 
Draw a line from E to D and parallel a line from J for 

point K. 
J to K is ^ inch more than E to D. 
Draw line through D and K. 
A to L is % inch and H to ^[ is '^ inch. 
M to N is on 6ths. Draw line through H and N. 
G to Q is on 4ths and O to R on 6ths. 
Draw a line through G and R. 
B to 1 is on 8ths and 4 to 5 on 8ths. 
I.ine 6-7 is ])arallel with breast line. 
F to 21 is on 3rds. 
8 and 12 is the break line of lapel. 
Parallel 8-9 by line l'>-20. 
I.ine 14-15 is parallel with line O-P. 
The lapel is graded only on length according to length of 

forepart. 
The collar is increased 1-16 inch in front and 2-16 in 

the back, in all 3-16 inch for each size. 

Collars. 
Diagram 1. 

Collars for ordinary Sack and Frock coats will in- 
crease in length 3-16 inch for every size. Of this 1-16 
goes to the front end and 2-16 to the back. 

Diagram 2. 

Convertible collars increase in size }4 inch for every 
size. Of this '(^ is added in front and -4 in the back. 

Diagram 3. Blouse Collars. 

The increa.se of neck is }i inch for each size of breast, 
hence the increase of half of the collar is ^ inch, which 
is all added in the back. 

Diagram 4. 

The Ulster collar is graded the same as the Blouse col- 
lars. The increase is }i inch for every size of breast, 
all added in the back. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



21 





9'> 



Stone's Scientific Systeh) 
of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM J 



The Dress Coat Front. 

The Dress Coat is graded the same as the regular 
Frock Coats. The heavy Hues represent the 38 size from 
which to grade. 
Draw hreast line and square u]) through front shoulder 

point B from breast line A. 
Q is 15^ inch up and forwards from armscye. Square 

up from Q through O. 
O to P is on 3rds. 

B to C is on 3rds and C to D on 8ths. 
Draw line through B and D. 
E is the dart. Parallel up and down from E by front of 

shoulders B-D. 
F is front of dart. Parallel F up and down for 8-11 by 

line 14-15. 
Parallel line 36-37 by line 8-11 and line 20-21 is on a 

parallel with line 36-37. 
Draw a line from B to C and |)arallel a line from D 

for K. 
D to K is y^ inch more than B to C. 
Draw a line through C and K and parallel a line from H 

for L, 12 and 13. 
Lines K-J, 10-11 and 9-8 are on a parallel with line G, F. 
Lines K-L, 10-13 and 12-9 are parallel with G-H. 
S to T is Js inch and T to U is on 6ths. 
Draw a line through S and LJ for points 24 and 25. 
Line V, W is on a parallel with line S. U. 
Line 28 to 29 is up on 6ths and forwards on 8ths. 
Lines 32-53 and 34-35 are parallel with line 30-31. 
R to X is on 4ths and X to Y on 6ths. 
Draw a line through R and Y for points 22-23. 
2 to 3 and 6 to 7 is on 8ths. 

Divide into five parts the same as on the Frock coats. 
Back and sidebodv are the same as on the Frock coats. 



Stone's Scioitific System 
of Grading Patterns 



2i 




24 Stone's Scientific System 

of Gradin(/ Patterns 



DIAGRAM K 



Diagram K represents the front of a policeman's 

overcoat with no V taken out at neck gorge. The heavy 

line represents the 40 size forepart. 

Draw the usual breast line B, E and 1. 

Line A, B, C is the front center. 

St|uare up from breast line E through front shoulder 
point E. 

E to G is on 3r(ls and G to 11 on 8ths. 

Draw a line through E and H. 

Draw a line from E to .\ and a parallel line from H for 
Ijoint L 

H to I is 4,s inch, which together with the '4 inch in- 
crease of the width of back at top makes it ^ inch in- 
crease of the neck gorge. 

Draw a line through A and 1 and parallel J for K. 

Line D, O is 2J4 inches below B. 

D to O is ?',s inch. Draw front center line from 1 
through O for point Q. 

X to Y is J,s inch. 

Line R, S, T is the \' taken out. 

Measure distance between first center line C to second 
center line Q at bottom of forepart. 

Erom U to \' is the same as C to Q and from R to C is 
the same as C to Q. 

\' to W and C to 8 is on 6ths. 

Draw line from U through W and from R through C. 

S to 6 is on 6ths and 6 to 7 is "j^ inch. 

Draw line through 5 and 7. 

Line T-9 is parallel with line S-7. 

1 to K is the same as .A to J. 

Point Z is ly, inch forward and up from armscye. 

Draw a line from Z through L. 

1 , to M is DU 3rds. 

1 to 2 is on 8ths, 3 to 4 is on 4ths and 4 to ? on 6ths. 

Draw line through 3 and 5, divide all these spaces into 
five parts. 

The back, sidebody and skirts are graded the same as 
the regular Erock coats. 



Stone's Scicntifii- System 
of Gradiiuj Patterns 



25 




26 Stone's Scientific System 

of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAMS L-M 



Diagram L is the Dress Coat Skirt. M, X. O and P 

is the 38 size skirt. 

Square out from M through N and from O througli P. 

P to R is on 4ths and N to Q is {'/^ inch or whatever 
the increase of the forepart and sidebody may be. Di- 
vide space into 5 parts, then go forward to S and T 
for the 46, and back to U and V for the 34 size. 

Shape top part from W forward to all the different 
points. 
Diagram AI is the skirt for the double breasted Frock. 

A, B, C and D is the 38 size skirt. 

Draw a line from A through B. 

B to E and C to F is 2 inches less the increase width of 
back on 12ths. 

Divide distance B to E and C to F into 5 parts, then go 
forward to G-ll for 46 and l)ack to I-J for 34 size. 

Shape top of skirt from point K, center of hip forward 
to all the different sizes. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



27 



G E B » 




28 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM N 



Till- Sleeve. 

The heavy line represents the 38 size sleeve. 

Draw a straight line A. 11, C through front center of 
sleeve. 

Square a line through D from C. 

U to E is .)4 inch and E to F is on 6ths. 

Draw a line through 1) and F for G and H. 

M is halfway between 1) and C on 38 size and N is half- 
way between C and E, the spaced 42 size. Sijuare up 

M and N. 
Square up and down a line at I where sleeve top crosses 

line C, M, N. 

I to J is on 6ths. 

R to O is on 4ths. 

Draw a line through O and P for T and S. 

U is halfway between P and D, and V is halfway be- 
tween O and F. 

Draw a line through U and \'. 

L'-\' is the same as D-F. 

Yto 10 is on 8ths. Divide spaces into 5 parts. Go out 

for the larger and in for the smaller sizes. 
The 38 size vuidersleeve is shown by lines 8, 9, Y and 2. 

Parallel line 2, 3, 4 and 3, also line 6-7 by top sleeve hue 

G-H. 
Space the underslccve on line !-}< the same spaces as top 

sleeve on line D, F. 
The undersleeve at bnttom is spaced the same as the top 

sleeve. 




Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



29 



DIAGRAM O 



Tufi Raclax Slkevk. 



Draw front center line A, 1! and L'. 

S(|uare across from point D outside corner of the 40 size 

outside top sleeve. 
1) to E is }i inch and E to F is on 6ths. 
Draw line through D and F for G and 11. 
Line 15-16 is parallel with line H-Cl. 
Point K is top of 40 sleeve. Co up from K on 3rds and 

back on 6ths for point I., which is top sleeve of the 44 

spaced sleeve. Run line through K and L and divide 

into 5 parts. ( io uji to N for the 48 and down to M 

fi ir the 36 size. 
Lines O. P, Q are parallel lines with line M-N. 
.At hand, point T, the increase is on 16ths. 

I'liK Inside Top Slefvk. 
The top part is at point 6. 
Draw a i)arallel line 6-7 by front center line. 
6 to 7 is on 3rds and 7 to 8 on 8ths. 
Draw a line through 6 and 8. Divide into 5 parts up to 

10 for 48 and down to 9 for 36 size. 
Lines 11, 12, 13 and 14 are all parallel lines with line 

9-10. 
Draw line W-X from 19 to D. 
W to X is ^ inch. Divide into 5 parts out to Z for the 

48 and back to V for the 36 size. 
Lay pattern top at 8 and shape down to X, which will 

give distance from 2 to 3. Shape outside sleeve by 

laying to]) of pattern at L. Shape down to F, this will 

locate point 16. 
The increase and decrease at hand point V is on 16ths. 
The undersleeve is graded the same as for the regular 

coats. 




30 Stone's Scientific System 

of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM P 

Vests. 

Tlie grading of vests is on the same principle as the 
coat. In this grade we start with the normal vest. The 
heavy line notates the 38 size normal vest. Start with 
the backpart. 
.\ to J is on 3rds. 

H to K is on 3rds and K to L on 8ths. 
Draw a line through B and L. 
C to M and M to N is on 3rds. 
Draw a line through C and N. 
N to R is j/^ inch. 

D to Q is on 3rds and Q to S is i/^ inch less. 
E to O and F to P is 1 inch. 
Divide all these points into 5 parts. Go up 3 points more 

for 4f), and down 4 more [Kiints for 34 size. 

The Forepart. 

The heavy line indicates the 38 front part. 

Square up from breast line 6 through front shoulder 

point 7. 
Point 15 is 1^ inch up and back from armscye. 
Draw a line from 15 through 16. 
16 to 17 is on 3rds. 

7 to 8 is on 3rds and 8 to 9 is on 8ths. 
Draw a line through 7 and 9 and parallel 10-11 by 7-9. 
3 to 4 is ^ inch and 4 to 5 is on 6ths. 
Draw a line through 3 and 5. 
18 to 21 and 19 to 22 is ^ inch. 
20 to 23 and 1 to 24 is 'i inch. 
Divide all these spaces into 5. go out three spaces for size 

46 and go in four spaces for 34 size. 
The neck piece is lengthened on 3rds plus 34 inch from 

12 to 13. 
0-14 is parallel with 11-12. 
Draw a line through 12 and 14 and parallel 13, giving all 

the points for the different size of neck piece. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Gradiny Patterns 



31 




H- 



28 22 19 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM Q 



Fat Men's Vest. 

In this diagram we have the vest for the fat man, 
breast 42, waist 42. The heavy Hnes indicate the size 
42 breast vest. 

The Backi'art. 
.\ to J is on 3rds. 

P> to K is on 3rds and K to L is on 8ths. 
Draw a Hne through K and L. 
C to M and M to N is on 3rds. 
Draw a line througli C and N. 
N to O is 'yi inch. 
D to P is on 3rds less % inch. 
E to Q and F to R is 1 inch. 
Divide all these sjiaces into 5 parts. ( io out 3 spaces for 

48 and down 4 s])aces for the 38 size. 

TlIK FORKPAKT. 

C"onK' back at waist line 1 inch as from .S to T and square 

back from U for breast line. 
.S(|uare u]) from breast line 1 through shoulder point 2. 
Point 5 is 1^4 inch uji and out from armscye. Draw a 

line from 5 through 7. 
7 to 8 is on 3rds. 

2 to 3 is on 3rds and 3 to 4 on 8ths. 
Draw a line through 2 and 4. 
U to 9 is .>4 inch and 9 to 10 is on Gths. 
Draw a line through U and 10. 
11 t(j 12 and Z to 13 is ->4 inch. 
\' to 15, W to 16, X to 17 and Y to 14 is '4 inch. 
Divide all these spaces into 5 parts, come out 3 parts for 

48 and down 4 parts for 38 size. 18 to 19 is '4 inch. 

Divide into 5 parts. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



33 




34 Stone's Scientific System 

of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM R 



Trousers. 



In tliis (liaj^raii) we have the iinrmal ti>.ii>ers. I lie 
heavy oiithiic is lliat of the i)attein from which to ,t;raiie. 
Waist 34, seat 3'J, i<iiee and liotloni to prevailing; style. 
A to B is the center line. 
C to N is ' J inch and \ tn (J I., inch. 
Draw a line through C and O. 
D to P is '/, and P to Q ' .. inch. Draw a line thnuij^h 

D and (J. 
V. to R and J to U is -Vs inch. 
1 to T is ' J inch and F to S is ->^ inch. 
i2 to 33 is y2 inch. 

Line 32-35 is 5 inches down from line F. S. 
1 to U is i/s inch and K to \' is 5-16 incli. 
r. to X and (1 to W" is on Sths. 
.M to V and 11 to Z is on 16ths. 
Divide all these sjiaccs into 5 i)arts. ( io out 3 spaces for 

waist 42 and come hack 4 spaces for waist 30. 

TuiC I'.At KI'AIM. 

1 111 13 is ' J and 13 tn 14 is ' _. inch. 

Draw a line thi'nn.^h 1 and 14, 

_' to 15 is '.., and 15 to 1() is ' _, inch. 

Draw a line through 2 and lo. 

7 to 8 is i'.t inches. 1 )raw a line fi'imi ,S through 4. 

3 to 17 is .'s inch and 4 to 18 is "s inch. 

Shape line from 17 to 18 and draw a line from .\ through 

5 and 23. 
6 to 24 is ^ inch. Line 34 is 5 inches helow line 4. 34 

to 35 is -Vs inch. 
9 to 20 and 10 to 19 is on Sths and 12 to 21 and 11 to 22 

is on 16ths. 
25 to 26 is J-j inch up and '4 inch back. 
Lines 27-28 and 29-30 are parallel with line 25-26. 
Divide all these spaces into live i)arts. (io out 3 parts 

for waist size 42, and go down four parts for size 30 

waist. 
T'or length of leg slide U]) and down on center line. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Gradiufi Patterns 



35 




36 Stone's Scientific System 

of Grading Patterns 



DIAGRAM S 

TiiK Fat Men's Trousers. 
The Forepart. 

'I'lie heavy line .shows the 42 waist forepart from vvhicli 

to grade. 
.\, 15 is the center line. 
C to P is y, and P to Q '4 inch. 
Draw a hne through C and O. 
D to N is ■/ and X to O is 3.. incli. 
Draw a line through D and O. 
E to Z is ^ and I to R is ^ inch. 
J to S is 5-16 inch. 
F to Y is Yfi and J to S is 5-16 inch. 
G to X is .)s inch. Line 36 is 5 inches down from G. 

36 to 37 is 1/2 inch. 
K to T and H to W is on 8ths. 
L to U and M to V is on 16ths. 
Divide all these spaces into 5 parts. 
Go out 3 spaces for 50 waist and down 4 spaces for 38 

waist. 

The Hackpart. 

1 to 12 is y. and 12 to 13 is "4 inch. 
Draw a line through 1 and 13. 

2 to 14 is y and 14 to 15 is "4 inch. 
Draw a line through 2 and 15. 

3 to 16 is jV^ inch. 25 is 2)/2 inches above 7. Draw a 
line from 25 through point 4. 

4 to 17 is J^ inch. 38 is 5 inches down from 4. 38 to 
39 is ys inch. 

Draw a line from A for 5 and 18. 

5 to 18 is j^ inch. 

6 to 19 is J^ inch. 7 to 20 is 5-16 inch. 
8 to 21 and 9 to 24 is on 8ths. 

10 to 23 and 11 to 22 is on 16ths. 

Divide all these spaces into 5 parts. 

Go out 3 spaces for the 50 waist and come back four 

spaces for the 38 waist. 

For leng'th of leg' slide up and down on center line. 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



37 




38 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Gradiiiij Patterns 







^ 




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PUBLICATIONS 




Stone's Scientific System of (trading. 

In hook form $10.00 






Grading Tools 5.00 






Stone's Anatomical Divisions of the Human Form and Form 
Growth from Birth to Manhood and Womanhood. 

In book form 10.00 






Stone's Advanced Coat and Vest System. 

In hook form 10.00 






Stone's Trouser System. 

hi book form . . . . 7.00 






Stone's System of Cutting Ladies' Garments. 

In book form 10.00 






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In book form. 3.00 




The Practical Cutter and Tailor. 

Chuck full of practical methods in cutting, published monthly. 

Per year $3.00 


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Stone's Scientific Systevt 
of Grading Patterns 



39 




TERMS FOR INSTRUCTION 

Til I:K I'AMI IN' MIVWCl 



LADIES' GARMENTS 



MEN'S GARMENTS 

Preliminary course in drafting hy proportions from heights 
and widths : 

Coats alone $ 30.00 

\'csts alone 20.00 

Trousers alone 20.00 

Coals, Vests and Trousers together 50.00 

.\dvanced course in drafting coats and vest-; liy shoulder 
measure method : 

Coats alone $ 30.00 

Vests alone 20.00 

Trousers hy actual measure 20.00 

Coals. Vests and Trousers together 50.00 

.Advanced course in drafting coats, vest-- and trousers hy the 
short measure method : 

Coats alone $ 3000 

V^ests alone 20.00 

Trousers hy actual mea-ure 20.00 

Coats. Vests and Trousers together 50.00 

Mixed courses: Proportions, shoulder measure and short 
measure methods comhincd : 

Coats alone .$ 50.00 

Coats and Vests together 75.00 

Coats, Vests and Trousers lOOOO 

How to .\pply Individuality in Cutting 25.00 

How to Make up Garments $15 to 25.00 

Practical Course : Laying patterns on the cloth, cutting 

the goods, trimming up of garments and trving on.... 50.00 

Shirts ' 25.00 

Drawers 15.00 

Overalls 15.00 

Jumpers 20.00 

Canvas Coats 25.00 

Hunting Coats 25.00 

Military Garments , 50.00 

Capes. Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters 50.00 

Riding Breeches 25.00 

Shifting Rlock Patterns, short course 25.00 

Shifting Block Patterns, full course 50.00 

Spacing 25.00 

Grading i . . . 50.00 

.Anatomical divisions and heights and widths 50.00 

Form Growth for Sizing Patterns 50.00 

Copying Garments 25.00 

Laying Patterns and Marking on Cloth 50.00 

SiHni;il mixed courses at special prices. 



Preliminary Course : 
heights and widths: 

Dress Waists 

Shirt Waists 

Blouses 

Jackets 

Bo.\ Coats 

C; 



Proportionate Methud, drafting from 



. apes 



Skirts ..,. 

Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts 

together 

.\dvanccd Courses: Drafting hy proportion and actual i 
ure methods : 

Dress Waists $ 

Shirt Waists 

Blouses 

Jackets 

Box Coats 

C 



15.00 

is.no 

15.00 
15.00 
15.00 
10.00 
15.00 

50.00 



.apes 

Skirts hy actual measure 

Dress Waists, Blouses. Jackets 
together 



Coats, Capes and Skirls 



25.(X) 
25.00 
25.00 
25.00 
25.00 
15.00 
25.00 

5000 



RIDING II.\BITS 

Jackets $ 25.00 

Side Saddle Riding Skirts 25.00 

Divided Skirts 15.00 

Riding Breeches 25.00 

Gaiters and Leggins 15.00 

Caps 10 00 

UNDERWEAR 

Night Rohes $ 25.00 

Chemises 25.00 

Drawers 20.00 

Corset Covers 20.00 

Under Skirts 15.00 

Drop Skirts 15.00 

Spacing : 25.00 

Grading 50.00 

.Anatomical divisions of heights and widths 50.00 

Form Growth for Sizing Patterns .50.00 

Copying Garments 2500 

Special mixed courses at special prices. 

FUR GARMENTS 

Drafting hv proportion from heights and widths : 

Jackets and Coats $ .WOO 

Capes and Collarettes 25.00 

T;ukrl«. Ciiats. Capes and Ccillarettcs toaether 50.00 



40 



Stone's Scientific System 
of Grading Patterns 



'/ '^ 






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ISSUfO H0NTHL1 ii'L-'PCR tiAR 



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